The cookie table is a Rust Belt wedding must — but can it be Covid-compliant?

A variety of cookies on a multitiered serving rack next to a candle on a buffet table.
A variety of cookies on a multitiered serving rack next to a candle on a buffet table.
Photo: Shady Elms Farm Venue

There isn’t a wedding planner in Pittsburgh who doesn’t consider where the cookie table will be placed in the reception space, knowing a well-executed cookie table can take the cake if size, quantity, and display emanate beauty and a bounty of cookies.

More importantly, cookie tables are a straightforward, traditional symbol of love for the couple: the more cookies, the more love.

Guests may ooh and ahh over a masterpiece wedding cake, but in this corner of the country, their hands and hearts are at the cookie table, drooling over an extravagant spread of mostly homemade cookies designed to impress, cause sugar attacks, give rise to guests’ criticism or kudos, and encourage cookie theft into purses and pockets. …


‘Eat the Universe’ features the food of superheroes

Photo of Justin Warner eating a bowl of noodles.
Photo of Justin Warner eating a bowl of noodles.
Photo: Justin Warner

Marvel movies have been releasing like clockwork over the past decade, but 2020 has been a letdown for superhero fans. With this year’s Black Widow solo film and the third installment in the Spider-Man franchise delayed due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic (along with The Falcon and the Winter Soldier, the studio’s first major TV series), this will be the first year in a long time that the world doesn’t get a major Marvel release.

While our favorite heroes won’t be up on the big screen anytime soon, there’s a way we can bring them into our kitchens this fall.

When chef Justin Warner took first place on the eighth season of Food Network Star in 2012, word got around that he was a bit of a nerd. …


‘How to Eat Now’ launches on Knowable today

Today, I launched my very first audio course! It’s called How To Eat Now, and I couldn’t be more excited about how it turned out. The course is a collaboration with an awesome company called Knowable; they’re a new platform of audio courses led by top experts in various fields so that busy people can learn interesting/important things and skills without having to devote huge amounts of time, effort, or attention. Like any podcast, you can listen to these while doing whatever: walking, driving, gardening, or, in our case, cooking.

Anyway, shortly after the pandemic set in here in the States, I started talking with the people at Knowable about how suddenly being stuck at home reinforced for a lot of people the importance of being able to cook for yourself (ideally in a way that’s healthful, enjoyable, and sustainable for a whole lifetime). We discussed doing a course geared particularly towards cooking in quarantine but ultimately figured that it would be even better to create something useful to anyone, anywhere, anytime. …


Why does it often feel so fraught and judgy?

Photo: boonchai wedmakawand/Moment/Getty Images

This was first posted as the October 5 “From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy” newsletter. You can sign up here.

The first time I saw the word “fat” used as a descriptor without a whiff of judgment was when the show Two Fat Ladies was playing on Food Network. It was a BBC show from the late ’90s, and the cartoon of them driving around in a motorcycle with a sidecar is burned in my brain. These were two broads who knew how to live, the introduction implied, and Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright did indeed do some living.

Their knowing, confident banter around travel and ingredients suggested extensive experience in the world; they would never use yogurt where cream would do. …


And how to make it your own

Okinawa, an island prefecture in southern Japan, stands out among a country that is already well known for longevity. They have a much lower rate of coronary heart disease compared to mainland Japan.

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Mortality rates from coronary heart disease and cancers in Okinawans, Japanese, and Americans (Source)

A separate study on Japanese centennials living in Okinawa, where the researcher went back and analyzed at what age these individuals were able to live independently (cook for themselves, do their own house chores, live in their own home, among other factors), came to another fascinating discovery: The study was only on 22 individuals, but among them, 82 percent were still independent at a mean age of 92 years and about two-thirds at a mean age of 97 years old — a lot of Okinawans don’t just live long, it seems they live long, active and happy lives. …


In Transit

Why Dolan Uyghur opted to stay open amid the lockdown

Uyghur cuisine served on an overlay of a map of the region.
Uyghur cuisine served on an overlay of a map of the region.
Illustrations: Bea Hayward

Welcome to In Transit, a column from the writer Mayukh Sen focusing on how immigrant-owned restaurants across America are coping with the Covid-19 pandemic. Read the first installment, on Guelaguetza in Los Angeles, here.

On his last night in the city of Ürümqi, Abduhemit Abdukeyum didn’t have much time. He couldn’t say goodbye to his friends, his relatives, not even his own mother. All he could do was buy a plane ticket and leave.

It was April 2017. Abdukeyum, who is now the owner of the Dolan Uyghur restaurant in Washington, D.C., was dodging persecution by the Chinese government. He’d lived in the territory he knew as East Turkestan, called the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region by the Chinese state, for his entire life. Abdukeyum had worked in medical research before starting a business of his own, but by 2017, the government put his company “upside down,” as he put it one day in September. “So I had to flee to another country and then start over again,” he said, speaking through his translator, Sabit Jelil (who is also the restaurant’s manager), in his mother tongue of Uyghur. …


Relying on frozen beans makes this one-pot meal a snap

A pot of soup, a bowl of soup, and a small, rustic loaf of bread.
A pot of soup, a bowl of soup, and a small, rustic loaf of bread.
Photo: Burcu Avsar & Zach DeSart

Bean soup is really my favorite, and I’m not alone. And, as everyone knows, beans are high in both protein and fiber, which makes them an important component of a plant-based diet.

As an ingredient in vegetable soups, legumes serve many functions. They work as a thickener; they add a wide range of distinct textures and tastes; they can enhance all sorts of soups in often surprising ways. And they’re almost universally interchangeable.

I prefer bean soups a tad on the thin side, but the consistency is easy enough to adjust if you prefer thicker soup: Either decrease the amount of stock or water by a half-cup or so, or add another third cup of uncooked beans (or a half-cup of cooked) as directed. …


Including schnitzel, even if you don’t eat meat

Photo: Nikada/Getty Images

Although drinking is on the rise and celebrations, as we knew them, have been canceled during this breathtakingly terrible year, there’s nothing stopping you from pouring a märzen and making one of these dishes at home.

You will appreciate these fall comfort food dishes and snacks — like homemade pretzels you can serve with a variety of mustards, or two variations on schnitzels, with one to please vegetarian cravings. …


The fine-mesh strainer called a tamis is a genius multitasker

The author’s 9-inch tamis
The author’s 9-inch tamis
The author’s 9-inch stainless-steel tamis. Photo: Bonnie S. Benwick

Of ringed frame and steel mesh I sing . . . about the tamis, my versatile kitchen assistant. It strains, steams, separates, sifts, aerates and grates! Smart home cooks in America have embraced the silicone mat and scales that tare to zero, yet this simple piece of chef equipment is rarely at hand.

The tamis (TAM-ee) deserves high praise, but highfalutin it is not. Billed as a “strainer ring” or a “sift ’n sieve,” it is available in the housewares department at Asian supermarkets and online for as little as $10 plus change. …


These bridge the gap between summer and fall

A bounty of fall vegetables like broccoli, parsnips, potatoes, mushrooms, and squash.
A bounty of fall vegetables like broccoli, parsnips, potatoes, mushrooms, and squash.
Photo: Halfdark/Getty Images

A new season is always a good excuse for new ideas, so here are five fast, easy recipes that you can throw together for a mostly hassle-free dinner in the coming days or weeks. I think they bridge the gap between summer and fall pretty well, there’s not too much (if anything) in the way of hard-to-source ingredients, and they’re also all vegetarian (it’s a wonderful time of year for produce; why not?). If you feel like adding meat to any of them, it won’t be hard.

1. Spicy Escarole with Croutons and Eggs

Cut good-quality bread into one-inch cubes; toss the bread with two tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper, and (if you like) a bit of dried oregano or garlic. …

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Food from every angle: From Medium x Mark Bittman

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